At Watches and Wonders 2025, Tudor is turning a new page – while remaining true to its proven strengths. Among this year’s novelties are the Pelagos Ultra, offering an impressive water resistance of 1,000 metres; the Black Bay 68 – an entirely new model with a 43-millimetre case; and an updated version of the Black Bay Chrono, which now comes in two variations. Here’s everything you need to know about the latest Tudor novelties.
When developing this new diver’s watch, Tudor asked a crucial question: what technical features must a timepiece possess in order to withstand the pressure of the deep sea – while remaining legible and reliable, even in near-darkness? The result is a literal translation of these demands into a mechanical object: the new Pelagos Ultra, capable of resisting pressure at depths of up to 1,000 metres.
This achievement is made possible by the choice of materials and components. The case has been enlarged to 43 mm and is crafted from Grade 2 titanium, complemented by a caseback in Grade 5 titanium. A helium escape valve, integrated into the case, ensures the safe release of gases during saturation dives.
But this new role as a deep-sea instrument has influenced not only the overall architecture of the case – it has also shaped the dial design. The hands are now thicker, the hour markers larger – and the signature Snowflake hands, a hallmark of Tudor dive watches since 1969, now glow in not just one, but two colours: blue and green.
Inside beats the MT5612-U manufacture calibre, which winds itself via a bidirectional rotor and delivers a power reserve of 65 hours. The movement is COSC-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute. The new Pelagos comes with a three-link titanium bracelet and an additional rubber strap. The retail price is set at CHF 5,500.
For Watches and Wonders 2025, Tudor has given its popular Black Bay 58 a bold new aesthetic, with the entire case now radiating a deep burgundy hue. However, this striking combination of the unidirectional rotating bezel and glossy dial in burgundy is not entirely new.
Its colour scheme is inspired by a prototype deeply rooted in the brand’s history – Reference 79190 from 1995 – which never made it into regular production. Now, its design is given a new lease of life in this latest model. Not least due to this prototype, which already featured the same combination of a glossy burgundy dial and matching bezel, the watch feels like a perfect fusion of modern and traditional elements.
Another nod to the brand’s heritage lies in the model name itself. The Black Bay 58 is named after the year 1958, when Tudor launched its first diver’s watch – Reference 7924. This historic piece offered water resistance to 200 metres – a specification shared by the new model. Like its predecessor, nicknamed the “Big Crown”, the watch features a polished 39 mm stainless steel case, echoing the proportions of the 1950s. In addition, the bezel has been redesigned with more pronounced, grippier ridges, moving away from the previously finer execution. The case itself has also been made flatter than in previous models of the collection.
At its heart beats the MT5400-U manufacture calibre, offering a power reserve of 65 hours. This calibre not only carries COSC certification but, for the first time in the Black Bay 58 line, also bears the Master Chronometer seal – one of the industry’s most demanding certifications in terms of chronometry and magnetic resistance. The new Black Bay 58 is available with three bracelet options: a three-link rivet-style bracelet, a five-link stainless steel bracelet with satin-brushed and polished elements, or a customisable black rubber strap. All three bracelet options for the Black Bay 58 – the three-link stainless steel, the five-link version, and the rubber strap – feature Tudor’s practical T-Fit clasp. This quick-adjustment system offers five settings over a range of 8 millimetres and can be operated without tools, ensuring a high level of comfort and adaptability. Prices are set at CHF 4,250 (five-link bracelet), CHF 4,150 (three-link bracelet), and CHF 3,950 (rubber strap).
Going against the prevailing trend of slimmer proportions, among this year’s novelties Tudor introduces an entirely new Black Bay model with a 43 mm case – designed to offer more presence on the wrist. The name Black Bay 68 refers to the year in which Tudor’s signature “Snowflake” hands were first developed. Acknowledging the demand for varied case sizes to suit different wrist types, the brand presents the new watch in two versions, each featuring a unidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute graduation and a choice of either a silver or blue dial.
The lollipop-style seconds hand is a subtle reference to Tudor’s early dive watches, while both the silver and blue dials feature a delicate sunray finish, adding a discreet shimmer when hit by direct light. Inside ticks the MT5601-U manufacture calibre, with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. In addition to its COSC chronometer certification, the movement is also classified as a Master Chronometer – a distinction introduced by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS) in 2015, and awarded only to movements that pass a rigorous series of tests beyond COSC standards.
To qualify as a Master Chronometer, a movement must pass a rigorous certification process. During the METAS testing procedure, the calibre is examined both as a set of components and as a complete watch – undergoing a total of eight individual tests. The focus lies on magnetic resistance, waterproofness, and chronometric precision. Watches awarded this certification must meet the following criteria: resistance to magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss, water resistance to 200 metres, and a daily accuracy of 0 to +5 seconds – a full five seconds more precise than the COSC standard of -4 to +6 seconds per day. Both variants of the new Black Bay model are fitted with a three-link stainless steel bracelet with polished and satin-brushed elements. The price for both versions is set at CHF 4,350.
Tudor introduces a new iteration of the Black Bay Pro, which – bearing a strong resemblance to its elder sibling, the Rolex Explorer II – adopts a striking opal-toned dial. A comparison is well justified given the striking similarities between the two models: the fixed bezel of the Black Bay Pro follows the Explorer concept, as do the indices – framed in black and coated with Super-LumiNova – crafted from black monobloc ceramic. The date window at 3 o’clock, connected to the local time hand, also remains unchanged.
But let’s move from similarities to what sets these watches apart. Instead of a bright orange arrow-shaped GMT hand as seen on the Explorer, the Black Bay Pro features a yellow hand in Tudor’s signature Snowflake style. The bold 24-hour numerals found on Rolex’s bezel are replaced with more refined figures in typical Tudor fashion. Another point of distinction is the case: while the Rolex Explorer Ref. 216570 measures 42 mm in diameter, the Tudor counterpart opts for a more compact 39 mm stainless steel case. Like its predecessor, the watch offers water resistance to 200 metres.
Inside this year’s Tudor novelty ticks the MT5652 manufacture calibre, delivering a power reserve of around 70 hours. Its features include: a jumping hour hand for the second time zone, a date display at 3 o’clock with quickset function linked to the 24-hour hand, and a hacking seconds mechanism for precise time-setting. The new Black Bay Pro is available with three bracelet options: a rivet-style steel bracelet, a hybrid leather-and-rubber strap, and a fabric strap with a yellow stripe. Pricing is set at CHF 4,050 for the steel bracelet version, and CHF 3,750 for both the hybrid and textile variants.
The Black Bay Chrono with a matte black or opaline dial is now available for the first time with a choice of a five-row or three-row stainless steel bracelet. The five-row stainless steel bracelet was previously reserved for the limited-edition Flamingo models. Particularly striking are the sub-dials, rendered in contrasting tones depending on the version: either opaline on black or black on opaline. This strong contrast creates a bold visual identity, while the 45-minute counter and date display at 6 o’clock draw direct inspiration from the brand’s first generation of chronographs. The shape of the chronograph pushers also harks back to this historical reference.
Signature Black Bay design elements are found in a 41-millimetre stainless steel case, complemented by a fixed bezel in stainless steel with a black anodised aluminium insert and a tachymeter scale – combining sporty functionality with understated elegance.
Inside this year’s Tudor novelty ticks the MT5813 manufacture chronograph calibre, offering hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, and date functions. The monobloc tungsten rotor is skeletonised, satin-brushed, and features sandblasted accents. The bridges and mainplate alternate between sandblasted and polished finishes, enriched by laser decorations. With a 70-hour power reserve and a silicon balance spring, the movement is officially certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
Prices are set at CHF 5,450 for the five-link version and CHF 5,350 for the three-link model.
